Pro-Peel Program With AHA & BHA
A chemical peel is a general term for fruit acid, which also goes by the names AHA and BHA.
In a chemical peel treatment, the top layer of dead skin cells is removed, which promotes cell renewal in the epidermis, thereby regenerating the skin from the inside. The method is therefore particularly effective when it comes to renewing the glow, shine and moisture of the skin, also when it wants to improve the skin’s texture, resilience and tone. The treatment also has a good effect when it comes to preventing lines and wrinkles, and at the same time improves skin damage such as pigment spots, scars, sun damage and early signs of aging.
Although the fruit acid is an ingredient that has long been used in high-concentration doses in professional skincare and in milder concentrations for home treatments, it is still revolutionary, and has changed the way we consider peels significantly.
High-concentration chemical peels can, during continuous treatment, increase the formation of the elastic fibers so that the skin is regenerated and wrinkles are reduced. The peeling exfoliates dead skin cells, which stimulates the formation of new skin cells, thereby reducing irregularities in the skin pigment. The method also creates a boost of hyaluronic acid – a term that refers to the basic substance of fluid in the skin and acts as the skin’s own, natural “filler”.
Various Types of AHA & BHA
BHA is an abbreviation for the chemical acid Beta Hydroxy Acid, while AHA is a common term for various types of acids coming from milk and fruit sugar, including glycolic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and others.
The 5 most interesting variants we use at Amazing Space are organic and can be found in nature in willow and cane sugar, among others:
- SALICYLIC ACID (BHA) – dissolves comedones and sebum and is therefore used for oily skin and acne
- GLYCOLIC ACID (AHA) – is the smallest molecule of AHA from cane sugar and is used for mature and damaged skin
- LACTIC ACID (AHA) – is a larger molecule from milk that smooths and optimizes moisture absorption, which is why it is suitable for all skin types
- CITRIC ACID (AHA) – creates a superficial micro-exfoliation and works on all skin types
- KOJIC ACID (AHA) – extracted from rice wine and contains an enzyme compound that inhibits melanin production, which is why it works particularly well against hyperpigmentation
The most common fruit acid types are lactic acid and glycolic acid, of which lactic acid is of slightly larger molecules, which therefore does not work as strongly. Of all AHAs, the glycolic acid has the smallest and finest molecular structure, which is why it is costly to both extract and manufacture. However, the size makes the molecules easier to move into the deeper layers of the skin, and this type is thus much more effective when it comes to deeper skin damage such as scars and wrinkles. In contrast, lactic acid is gentler when it comes to exfoliating and cleansing products, and also acts as pH regulator at a minimal dosage in regular products.
- Boosts the production of connective tissue in the dermis, thus promoting the healing of the skin, with effect on all tissue damage
- Refines large pores and rough skin structure
- Reduces and prevents lines and wrinkles
- Dampens the skin’s surface with moisture by pulling the natural HA up to the surface, like a kind of inner, natural “filler” in the epidermis
- Promotes renewed formation of HA (hyaluronic acid) and therefore has a “here and now” effect
- Provides a fresh and renewed complexion through a micro-exfoliation of the skin’s surface, eliminating dead skin cells – Uniform skin pigmentation
Treatment course - Which one to choose
Only highly trained cosmetologists or nurses are allowed to perform peels in the high concentrations. The Amazing Space Skin Therapists are trained to give you a thorough guide on the types of peels that will best suit your skin and, based on your wishes and needs, organize an individual course of treatment for you.
Expected result of peeling
A good result usually requires more than one treatment, and preferably an intense course of 6-12 treatments. However, after a targeted regiment of several treatments, the result is a significantly smoother and fresher skin with fewer fine wrinkles and a nicer skin structure.
It is possible to pre-treat with a home mask for an agreed period before the actual treatment and between the peels, with an associated care routine that adapts to the skin condition. The result is also best maintained with a home mask and an annual treatment at the clinic as needed.
Skin pH and acid concentration in %
The acid concentration itself has a lot to say. If the effect is to operate at a different and deeper level than a normal exfoliation, the concentration must be above 8%. However, at very high doses, the pH of the skin, which normally stands at 5.5, falls simultaneously, and you risk reaching the critical 2 where the skin can begin to etch. The side effects at such high concentrations can thus be bad, and so there is always a so-called “turn down” period after such an intervention, which must be considered more surgically and must only be performed by dermatologists and plastic surgeons. The pH of the fruit acids should therefore always range from 3 and up to 4.5 in skincare. For the in-depth results of clinical treatment courses, we use 18-30% in a lightweight formula that maintains the skin’s pH at 3, and therefore does not create major side effects. However, all strong acids will still provoke skin redness as a side effect, promoting temporary irritation and burning. This quickly disappears again.
Mild chemical peels - for home treatment
A milder but still effective chemical exfoliation is typically performed at home by yourself, or by a cosmetologist using a mask with a concentration of 12%. Here, the pH is adjusted and stabilized to a level of 3.5-3.8, which is why you will only experience minimal side effects in the form of redness and burning. The peeling affects the outermost layer of the epidermis, where it plumps the skin with moisture and smooths the surface. The result is immediate after a peeling, smoother and softer skin with a beautiful shine and glow.
Strong chemical peels - for treatment at the clinic
If you choose a course of treatment, you should come 1-2 times a week until you have received 6-12 treatments. The rule is that there should be a minimum of two days and a maximum of one week between treatments. This exfoliation removes the epidermis and moves down into the lower part of the skin where it stimulates the deeper layer of skin. This is where the epidermal cells are created, and thus the treatment removes the outer skin cells and the superficial pigment, while initiating the formation of basal cells and increasing the production of the skin’s own hyaluronic acid. This greatly reduces wrinkles, deep scars, creped skin and pigmentation, and at the same time contributes to a smooth and regular complexion, making the skin appear smoother and healthier.
Quality and composition
The composition of a fruit acid product is highly variable. The formulas can be anything from minimal to maximum effective and some with bad side effects in the form of sting / blush – others almost completely without.
A good and safe formula with the best possible effect consists of a high percentage (ie a large amount) of fruit acid, but with a safe pH value that does not fall below 3, which is the skin’s irritation limit. Many people mistakenly believe that it is the low pH that makes the product work, but it is actually the amount of fruit acid that is crucial. However, the challenge is that the more fruit acid formula is added, the lower the pH value. Therefore, it requires a special chemical processing and development with a so-called “buffer system” to achieve the perfectly optimal formula. This is a fact, and prescription developments are extremely costly and time-consuming, which is why many bad and unsafe varieties of fruit acid products on the market are also available, which are either ineffective due to an excessively low amount or contain an excessive amount, causing unnecessary skin irritations.
During and after a period of fruit acid treatments, always use a cream with a solar protection factor of minimum SPF30 and preferably SPF50. Alternatively, the skin may be vulnerable and the pigmentation damaged, resulting in a permanent uneven complexion.
You should not use fruit acid in your everyday products all year round as the acid weakens the skin along the way. However, this is part of the process that, after a completed process, rebuilds the skin and creates a stronger tissue.
Temporary side effects
Side effects of a peeling depend on the type and strength of the peeling. In general, the milder the peeling, the less risk there is of side effects.
In rare cases there is a risk of infection, allergy, redness and subsequent scarring. Furthermore, the skin may become darker or lighter after peeling. The risk of pigmentation is increased by taking oral contraceptives, medication, staying in the sun or pregnancy after treatment.
In rare cases, there is a risk of herpes outbreaks if you have had cold sores before, as well as an increased risk of infection by bacteria, viruses or fungi. Infection is manifested by redness, tenderness and swelling of the skin as well as possible fever.
A chemical peel should be completely avoided on cold sores, inflamed acne, new surgical wounds or other wounds. Furthermore, people who tend to form keloid scars are not treated because of the increased risk of scarring.
During the initial consultation, you will receive additional information about what happens before, during and after a peeling process.
Product type: micro-exfoliating mask
Recommended for: All as needed, with the exception of those with ultra-sensitive skin and inflammatory conditions.
Advise: Perform if necessary, a test on a smaller skin area at the top of the chest for 5-7 minutes, and see how the skin has reacted the following day.
Description: Firming, cell renewal and regenerating facial mask that refines the structure and deepens the skin with an effective cocktail consisting of multi-spectrum fruit acid in the form of glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, while squalene wax from hibiscus softens the skin. The mask effectively boosts the skin’s natural regeneration process, reducing lines, wrinkles, rough pores, scars, hyperpigmentation and impurities.
Short ingredient list: Alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids.
Complete INCI List: Aqua *, Glycolic Acid *, Lactic Acid *, Salic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide *, Citric Acid *, Corn Starch Modified *, Hydroxy Ethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethultaurate *, Squalane (hibiscus) *, Glycerin *, Polysorbate -60, Gluconolactone, Tocopherol *, Sodium Dehydroacetate *, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Calcium Gluconate *
* Natural ingredients
Amazing Space uses only safe formulas with a pH value of 3 – 3.5, but stronger AHA / BHA hydroxy acids will, as a side effect, cause skin redness and temporary irritations that may last until the day after treatment.
During the working time of the mask, a tingling and / or burning sensation may be experienced and the skin may flare for hours after use. This is due to the active ingredients as well as the low pH. How much it tingles/burns, depends on the skin condition at that particular time. The side effect is quite harmless and cannot be avoided if you want to achieve the good results of the treatment. If the skin is very dry and dehydrated, the absorption time of the acid is explosive / rapid, and the redness and burning will feel worse when compared to when the acid is absorbed by a well-groomed and balanced skin. Therefore, the experience is often different and varies from season to season.
Shortly after treatment, you may also peel a bit, as dead skin cells will be repelled, allowing the skin to regain a new and smoother surface. Therefore, treatment should never take place close to an important event such as a party, wedding or similar.
The skin becomes UV and light sensitive after fruit acid treatments as the otherwise protective and horned skin is reduced, leaving the skin defenseless as a newborn baby’s skin. Therefore, you must both avoid the sun and apply sun protection in the time after the treatments. This means a minimum of 7 days after applying the basic mask, but for a minimum 30-45 days after an intense cure with the optimized mask. Always apply high SPF30 – 50 and carefully follow your therapist’s guideline for this.
Be aware that sweat can interfere with the pH and induce a new irritant state if you seek intense heat in the hours after treatment such as sauna, steam bath and exercise.
Contraindications can arise from the treatment of fruit acid when taking medications that promote uv / photosensitivity to the skin, and in such situations, you should always consult your doctor beforehand. Furthermore, in cases of inflammation of the skin, treatment is not recommended.